Pizza and Kimchi

The sounds of leather-soled shoes clap on the wooden floor of the hallway. Everything is immaculately clean, simple and carefully placed. The well dressed Japanese businessman opens the solid wood door to the Japanese restaurant. With a nod and slight German accented “Arigato,” his two guests and translator walk into the Osaka restaurant.

The food is classic Japanese. The sake is fresh, unpasteurized and slightly chilled. Sitting at the table with their translator, the two businessmen from America are entertained by their counterpart. An esteemed colleague representing a large Japanese pharmaceutical company in Asia, this meeting is of the utmost importance for the American company looking to break into the Japanese and Asian market.

After dinner, the Japanese businessman asks with a smile, “So, how do you like Osaka, Japan?”

In a German accent, the Vice President of the American company answers first, “I have only been here for a night so far, I have not seen much of the city. From what I have seen, Osaka looks like a pleasant place.”

The American lawyer nonchalantly chimes in, “oh, it is just like any other dirty port city. We have many dirty cities like this in the United States.”

Stone-faced at the American’s response, the German doctor looks over to the translator who is sitting quiet in the corner of the room. It is readily apparent that the Japanese businessman understood every word said.

The businessman continues to speak as if nothing happened. As the three finish dinner, small-talk assumes over the scheduled meeting at the company’s headquarters in Osaka.

A few days pass as the American guests meet with various individuals to address mundane and more complicated issues associated with passing a drug through the Japanese version of the FDA. Finally the time comes for the business meeting with the Japanese businessman.

The two foreign guests sit at the conference table with their translator nearby. The German looks at his watch. One hour late? He wonders if something is wrong. Where is the Japanese businessman?

Now two hours have passed.

Three hours…

This is a pivotal meeting for the two companies. Without the meeting, the entire trip would be a failure.

Finally the German asks the translator, “Where is he? Is there a reason he has not showed up for the meeting?”

The translator responds, “The man is from Osaka. The American lawyer has insulted his hometown. The man lost ‘face’ and will not come today.”

Carefully calculated, completely thought through, and without emotion, the man specifically planned not to show.

During dinner, he expressed no anger, no disappointment and no emotion. Both guests, the American and the German, did not recognize the cultural insult the American lawyer gave to the man. Rather than showing his dissatisfaction right at the dinner table, the businessman decided to wait.

In Korea, ‘face’ is called “kibun.” In this specific instance, Japanese and Korean culture are extremely similar. Kibun refers to feelings, pride and emotional discourse. If someone insulted one’s hometown in America that person would show some immediate level of dissatisfaction with the insult. In East Asia, a lot of emotion is left unsaid. Not to use a cliché, but the often used phrase ‘actions speak louder than words’ takes on a new level here in East Asia.

Although things have changed with the new generation, what happened to my father 25 years ago still explains a lot of the cultural differences between East Asia and the West. With family, East Asians are quick to show anger and discipline with their children but uneasy when showing other more positive emotions. With business colleagues, generally little to no emotion is shown.

When I told my Aunt that I was happy to see her, her response was “Oliver has always been very easy with emotions, even as a child.”

This reserved nature and emotional internalization has also crossed over to Asian immigrants in the US. Older Asians will prefer not to vocalize any injustices they have experienced in America. You ask my mom about how she was treated differently because she was Asian in America and she will always try to change the subject or say a few words and become quiet. Many Asians still do this today. I am not making a judgment on whether this is a correct path to take. What I am trying to convey is that in this regard, the difference in cultures is like the difference between daily foods.

When compared to their other American minority counterparts, this non-vocalization has made most Americans oblivious to what is socially acceptable and what is not when dealing with Asian Americans. Making fun of Asian accents in the presence of Asians you do not know still occurs in the West. After speaking to a Polish lady who told me about this exact experience in Poland, where these Korean exchange students came home in tears, makes me realize that those who choose to do this may not realize they are hurting the feelings of the Asians they are doing it to. Without recognition that this action is an insult, the insensitive Westerner may continue to do it. Regardless of whether this was ‘lost in translation,’ it is one thing to make a joke among friends. It is culturally insensitive to do this in front of strangers.

There are many fine differences between East Asian and Western culture. Most of them are in fact gestures and actions, rarely words. Chopsticks left in the rice bowl is an insult to the host and cook. Not taking alcohol with two hands from someone older than you is an insult. Not drinking the alcohol away from your elder is also an insult. The list goes on.

There is much unsaid in Korea. In some ways it leaves a traveler with a Western upbringing like me a little lost.

However, how we choose to respond to such insults also may vary as much as the pizza or kimchi we eat...

Video: China Part 1

So, apparently I have over 500 video clips for China. Makes sense since it was an amazing place and a very rich and historically deep culture.

As a result, I have decided to make a number of different themed videos on China. This first one focuses on some well known landmarks. I would highly recommend you watch all my videos (past, present, future) with sound.

I will try to sprinkle these videos in with some of the written commentary of my current journey through South Korea.

I hope you like the video, and again, sound will be key in a few of these upcoming videos.

ciao,

Oliver

Korean Grammar

So including the major difference in appearance between English and Korean(memorizing symbols for letters is one major hurdle), the entire grammar structure of east Asian languages (Japanese, Korean) is completely different.

Chinese, much like English, has the form "subject, verb, object." Apparently when one does not factor in the memorization of Chinese symbols, this makes Chinese easier to learn for Westerners than Japanese or Korean.

So in English it is, "John is my friend." John here is the subject, "is" is the verb, "my friend" is the object. In Korean, the verb (if there is a verb - we'll get to that later) is at the end of the sentence. Also, adding a noun is apparently optional in Korean if it is implied that the second party knows what the first party is talking about.

Taking all that into account, the sentence could just be "my friend, is." If your not confused already (I certainly am), let's get to the tricky part. Sometimes there are not even verbs. Sometimes there is a syllable that you can add to the end of a noun to give it the properties of a verb. So, this sentence could very well be: "my friend-(verb ending)."

I should also add. If there is a noun in the sentence, and it is the subject of the sentence, then it also receives a special syllable that changes if the noun ends in a consonant or a vowel. So, adding the noun back into our English sentence, the sentence could be "John-(added term based on "hn" ending) my friend-(verb ending)."

Pretty confusing I think. Right now I'm taking baby steps. Oh I forgot to mention there are 21 vowels in Korean. What ever happened to the simple "a, e, i, o, u" of English? There are only 19 consonants, not that bad. Oh wait, but if these consonants are syllable-ending consonants some of them change sounds to other consonants. The symbol does not change, only the sound. I think they threw that in there to really confuse the shit out of Westerners trying to learn the sounds associated with the symbols. Also, there are certain consonant pairings that make one of the consonant sounds jump to the next syllable. Further, that sound can be silent or completely different than if it was alone.

Needless to say, Korean, much like Japanese, is a very hard language to learn.

My goal by the end of my time here is to be able to hold a 3-5 minute conversation with a native speaker. I think that is a realistic goal while here in Korea. At some point I would like to be fluent. But, given I am learning my fourth language, I am experienced enough to know that this will take at least 2 years of constant learning, which I don't have given I want to go to law school and thus will have no time. So realistically I look to have Korean checked off my life's to-do list sometime in the next 5 years with my time here in Korea forming the building blocks.

I hope you guys keep reading as I get ever-more lost in translation.

Still feeling under the weather...

So I'm still sick. Starting to think the Chinese government read my blog, didn't like it, and subsequently infected me with bird flu or something. Just to give you a little update of what I am going through in Korea, check out this blog post. Substitute "Aunt" for "Mom" and you roughly have the idea of my first experiences in Korea...

I hope all is well. I promise I will have a legitimate post soon.

Arrived in Korea

Greetings from Korea! Sadly, I've come down with the flu the day before I got on the plane from Hong Kong to Seoul. I hope to have a legitimate post up by mid week, but so far I've been battling this illness that will not go away. Also, try explaining "I am sick and need rest" in a language you barely know. Right now I'm taking some mystery medication from the Korea pharmacy. The reason I say "mystery medication" is because I can't read anything on the box!!

Anyway, I hope you read the post on China below and I promise to have something up soon.

Kung Fu Kicks, Chicken Feet and Noodle Shops: Reflections on China

Is is very rare to have the opportunity to visit a country in such rapid economic transition. On every block in Shanghai is a construction crane. To reinvent itself from an undeveloped agricultural society to a vibrant industrialized economic superpower in three decades is a remarkable accomplishment never seen since the German "Wirschaftswunder" (Economic Miracle) of the 1950's, 60's and 70's.

The hackneyed image of a sleeping dragon of the East being wakened accurately depicts China's relatively steep transition to capitalism. Equally as steep is its people's embrace of capitalistic entrepreneurship.

There is much to be impressed with in China. Whether it is the oldest continuous culture, the birthplace of civilization (arguably older than the fertile crescent), or the overall generosity and kindness of the Chinese people, China can leave anyone with an open-mind awestruck by the rich, deep and complex nature of its culture and society.

The admittedly young but distinct "Chinese Capitalism" seems to be working for now. In some regards, it has suceeded in creating a safe prosperous utopia. China does not have the "barrios, ghettos, slums, no-go areas" that plague the United States with its highest homicide crime rate in the industrialized world statistic. It does not have the culture of "being dumb or vapid is cool." It does not have the culture of over-consumption. For now, China has avoided the sin of buying Mercedes Benz's and big houses because they need to be "perceived" as being successful in order to be successful. For the most part, China has avoided these vices of gluttony, envy and covetousness.

However, with that said, China is changing. With this change comes marketing. With marketing comes image. With images comes the feeling of happiness (in economic terms - utility) associated with certain status or object of possession. It is truly "up in the air" whether Chinese Capitalism will work. So far, we have only seen it succeed during periods of economic growth. What happens when the business cycle naturally turns the other way?

It is mere speculation at this point whether China will eventually need to liberalize socio-political aspects or whether it can maintain this unique at times contradictory form of commi-capitalism. After visiting the country for a short time, the conception that China is less free than Western society is in my impression questionable. Although I never personally saw anyone publically criticize the government the way people in the West have the freedom to do, I also never saw anyone pubically embrace the government either. I have a feeling the West is at times too hypocritically scarred by images of "tank man" and the cultural revolution to recognize that in everyday activities the Chinese people seem just as content and free with their situation as any American in the United States.

With that said, I do have my qualms with China. First and foremost would have to be the aforementioned general lack of open political discussion regarding issues such as civil liberties and public choice. Although the people may generally be free, the people do seem to placate to the wishes of the government without individual thought. My second problem would have to be the level of pollution emitted as a result of industrialization.

On the second point, it would be hypocritical of me to blindly criticize China for this without recognizing the United States' disregard for its pollution levels during its own industrial revolution in the late 1800s. Further, levels in the 1900s and the current disregard for the industrialized world-backed environmental legislation like the Kyoto protocol leaves a bad taste in my mouth.

In addition, numerous economists have argued that economic development has to be pro-industry anti-environment in the early stages of industrialization. One thing to take note of is the fact that China publicaly looks to achieve a standard of living similar to the United States. However, someone has failed to let them know that the world does not have the natural resources needed to sustain two United States consumption rates.

What China needs is what numerous academics have called a look beyond the failures of an American consumption rate based on greed and glut. China needs to blend European style conservatism with American entrepreneurship to establish an even newer version of Chinese Capitalism.

The talked about transition back to cloth shopping bags from plastic and paper is a start. In New York City, a large portion of the city's trash is exported to Central America because there is no place for it in the United States. I would hate to see that happen to Asia.

Further, the air pollution in China is horrible. The Guardian via the Chinese Academy of Environmental Planning has stated that air pollution caused 411,000 premature deaths in China in 2003.

Take a look at the following picture in this article. That is not fog in the picture. People have said that the air pollution has improved since the Olympics. I personally feel it is still really bad.

I am not telling anyone anything new by saying my country is not perfect. Nor is China, nor is the World. Someone smarter than me once said that the American form of government is much like a dog walking on his back two legs. The astonishing thing is not that the dog looks awkward and inefficient walking only on his hind legs. The astonishing thing is that the dog is walking at all.

Politics aside, I truly enjoyed my time in China. The people, food and history were the highlights. I hope for further trips into the richest deepest culture in the world. China is definitely more than just Kung Fu kicks, Chicken Feet and Noodle Shops.

China is not the China the West sees in Western media sources, but China is also not the utopia the Chinese government wishes it to be. I hope one day every common Chinese and American can have an educated discussion on all issues related to our countries and the world. For this to happen, both America and China need to grow dramatically.

Xi'an

I step off the overnight train from Beijing to Xi'an. My face and body sticky and covered in cigarrette smoke. Immediately I look forward to the mass of people in front of me. George and I are now in what was once the capital of the Empire of China for 15 generations.

This is where the first Emperor unified all of China under one authority. This is where the silk road that spans virtually all of Asia, the Middle East and Eastern Europe begins and ends. This is where the often claimed eigth wonder of the ancient world, the Terracota Warriors, where discovered in 1975. This is where the Tomb of Emperor Jingdi lies with mercury depicting the lakes of the then known world. This is where I need to use the toilet.

Okay, okay, I'm joking, but it was a long train ride.

George and I step out of the train station into the maddness that is the mass of people in front of the station. I look for a taxi booth. In a rapid flurry for an available taxi, we compete with locals to find an open taxi. Packs on our backs we run and flag a taxi down. I open the door and tell the driver, "Defu Xiang, Shuyuan Xiang." He yells at me something in Chinese and basically makes it clear he will not take us. "Why won't this taxi driver take us?" George asks. I look at the other drivers ignoring us. I respond, "I don't know, this is weird, literally no taxi driver wants to take us anywhere."

We walk through the north city wall gate and try to flag a cab in the city center. In many ways this should have been our first indication that Xi'an is different than the rest of China. We finally make it to the hostel and spend the day viewing the Big Goose Pagoda and the Muslim Quarter of Xi'an. Xi'an is an interesting melange of cultures. As the beginning and end of the silk road, and given Islam was spread via trade by the Silk Road, Xi'an has a very vibrant Chinese Muslim population. The food there is distinctly different than Han Chinese food. I try some crushed flat bread soup with noodles, beef and onion. The soup is tasty. The beef broth is extremely potent. I also order some dumplings that contain spices not normally associated with Chinese cooking I feel. The influence of trade on Xi'an cultural food is readily apparent in the use of honey, dates and flat bread.

George, in need of a visa extension, decides to take an overnight train to Hong Kong. I decide to take the train to Shanghai and then my flight back to Hong Kong. After travelling with someone for two weeks, it can be difficult moving back to travelling alone. I shake his hand and say goodbye, "see you in Hong Kong brotha." "See you in Hong Kong" George grins.

After visiting the Terracotta Warriors, I grab my bag and attempt to head to the train station. I flag one cab down, "Hou che shan." The man waves his hand and shakes his head. Oh no! Not this again! Why the heck does no one want to take me to the train station? I start walking. Okay, okay, I still have a few hours of time. Maybe I can find another cab. I flag the second one, "Hou che shan, train station." The man waves his hand and shakes his head. This is getting ridiculus. The third one, now the fourth. By this time I am halfway to the center of the city. Maybe I can walk there? The hostel is the exact opposite side of the city as the train station. Walking there would take the entire day.

Well, as long as I continue walking north, I am walking in the right direction. I flag my fifth taxi, "Hou che shan" I start tapping my wrist to show that I am running out of time. Denied. Time panic starts to set in. What time is it? Okay, I have a little over an hour to make it. I continue walking. I think I am lost at this moment. Finally I flag another taxi. This time the cab does not even stop. He looks at me and shakes his head. What the fuck is going on? I think to myself I am screwed. No one wants to pick me up and I will miss my train to Shanghai. By the ninth taxi that does not even stop for me I start to wonder why.

I look at my clock. It's now fifty minutes before my train leaves. I will take any form of transportation at this moment. In addition, I will pay nearly anything to catch this train and not loose 333RMBs. A man on a motorcycle starts yelling at me. I think he wants to take me to the train station. I stare at him in disbelief. Am I really going to do this? With a huge 50lbs pack and a backpack on, am I going to let this fat man take me on his motorcycle?

No taxis are stopping for me. I look at my clock again. 45 minutes to go. "You can't take me! It's too unstable. I weigh nearly 200lbs and with both my backpacks, this will not work. We will get in an accident." He yells back in Chinese. I look on the road to see no taxis anywhere. Not like the cabs were stopping for a Western backpacker anyway. I step onto his old motorbike/scouter. This is probably either the worst decision I have made in China or the best. I will either get in an accident or I will make my train.

The pack still on my back and my backpack still on my front, I grab onto his fat sides and we start driving. I think I am going to die here. The traffic is horrible. We navigate through buses, cars, other motorcycles and pedestrian traffic all with no adherence to whatever traffic laws are in existence. I breath in the smog and dust and hope we do not get in an accident. This is the only way I can make my train. I keep telling him, "Hou che shan, Hou che shan." I tap my wrist neurotically. I know I need to go through security and the train station is like navigating through a dense forest of peddlers, beggars and old ladies with a knack of getting ahead of you in line.

We make a few rights and a left, it seems most during oncoming traffic. I start to wonder, does he know I need to go to the train station? Am I pronouncing "hou che shan" correctly? I start saying "hou che shan" while renacting an old choo choo train. He nodes and says "hou che shan, hou che shan." Okay, I think he knows where to go. Nothing looks familiar.

We make a left turn. I look over his left shoulder and recognize the north gate of the city walls. We are here. Finally I have made it, all in one piece too. I get off. "How much?" He grabs into his pocket and pulls out three 10RMB notes. A fleece!!!! What!??!? 30 RMB for what would cost 10RMB by taxi? I pretend not to understand and give him 20RMB. He looks at me, "no no no." He points at his three 10RMBs. Thinking about the time I realize I am haggling over the equivalent of $1.50. I give him 10RMB more. I am not happy. I would never have given him that much if I was not pressed for time.

I start running with packs on to the train station. I make my train...