Still feeling under the weather...

So I'm still sick. Starting to think the Chinese government read my blog, didn't like it, and subsequently infected me with bird flu or something. Just to give you a little update of what I am going through in Korea, check out this blog post. Substitute "Aunt" for "Mom" and you roughly have the idea of my first experiences in Korea...

I hope all is well. I promise I will have a legitimate post soon.

Arrived in Korea

Greetings from Korea! Sadly, I've come down with the flu the day before I got on the plane from Hong Kong to Seoul. I hope to have a legitimate post up by mid week, but so far I've been battling this illness that will not go away. Also, try explaining "I am sick and need rest" in a language you barely know. Right now I'm taking some mystery medication from the Korea pharmacy. The reason I say "mystery medication" is because I can't read anything on the box!!

Anyway, I hope you read the post on China below and I promise to have something up soon.

Kung Fu Kicks, Chicken Feet and Noodle Shops: Reflections on China

Is is very rare to have the opportunity to visit a country in such rapid economic transition. On every block in Shanghai is a construction crane. To reinvent itself from an undeveloped agricultural society to a vibrant industrialized economic superpower in three decades is a remarkable accomplishment never seen since the German "Wirschaftswunder" (Economic Miracle) of the 1950's, 60's and 70's.

The hackneyed image of a sleeping dragon of the East being wakened accurately depicts China's relatively steep transition to capitalism. Equally as steep is its people's embrace of capitalistic entrepreneurship.

There is much to be impressed with in China. Whether it is the oldest continuous culture, the birthplace of civilization (arguably older than the fertile crescent), or the overall generosity and kindness of the Chinese people, China can leave anyone with an open-mind awestruck by the rich, deep and complex nature of its culture and society.

The admittedly young but distinct "Chinese Capitalism" seems to be working for now. In some regards, it has suceeded in creating a safe prosperous utopia. China does not have the "barrios, ghettos, slums, no-go areas" that plague the United States with its highest homicide crime rate in the industrialized world statistic. It does not have the culture of "being dumb or vapid is cool." It does not have the culture of over-consumption. For now, China has avoided the sin of buying Mercedes Benz's and big houses because they need to be "perceived" as being successful in order to be successful. For the most part, China has avoided these vices of gluttony, envy and covetousness.

However, with that said, China is changing. With this change comes marketing. With marketing comes image. With images comes the feeling of happiness (in economic terms - utility) associated with certain status or object of possession. It is truly "up in the air" whether Chinese Capitalism will work. So far, we have only seen it succeed during periods of economic growth. What happens when the business cycle naturally turns the other way?

It is mere speculation at this point whether China will eventually need to liberalize socio-political aspects or whether it can maintain this unique at times contradictory form of commi-capitalism. After visiting the country for a short time, the conception that China is less free than Western society is in my impression questionable. Although I never personally saw anyone publically criticize the government the way people in the West have the freedom to do, I also never saw anyone pubically embrace the government either. I have a feeling the West is at times too hypocritically scarred by images of "tank man" and the cultural revolution to recognize that in everyday activities the Chinese people seem just as content and free with their situation as any American in the United States.

With that said, I do have my qualms with China. First and foremost would have to be the aforementioned general lack of open political discussion regarding issues such as civil liberties and public choice. Although the people may generally be free, the people do seem to placate to the wishes of the government without individual thought. My second problem would have to be the level of pollution emitted as a result of industrialization.

On the second point, it would be hypocritical of me to blindly criticize China for this without recognizing the United States' disregard for its pollution levels during its own industrial revolution in the late 1800s. Further, levels in the 1900s and the current disregard for the industrialized world-backed environmental legislation like the Kyoto protocol leaves a bad taste in my mouth.

In addition, numerous economists have argued that economic development has to be pro-industry anti-environment in the early stages of industrialization. One thing to take note of is the fact that China publicaly looks to achieve a standard of living similar to the United States. However, someone has failed to let them know that the world does not have the natural resources needed to sustain two United States consumption rates.

What China needs is what numerous academics have called a look beyond the failures of an American consumption rate based on greed and glut. China needs to blend European style conservatism with American entrepreneurship to establish an even newer version of Chinese Capitalism.

The talked about transition back to cloth shopping bags from plastic and paper is a start. In New York City, a large portion of the city's trash is exported to Central America because there is no place for it in the United States. I would hate to see that happen to Asia.

Further, the air pollution in China is horrible. The Guardian via the Chinese Academy of Environmental Planning has stated that air pollution caused 411,000 premature deaths in China in 2003.

Take a look at the following picture in this article. That is not fog in the picture. People have said that the air pollution has improved since the Olympics. I personally feel it is still really bad.

I am not telling anyone anything new by saying my country is not perfect. Nor is China, nor is the World. Someone smarter than me once said that the American form of government is much like a dog walking on his back two legs. The astonishing thing is not that the dog looks awkward and inefficient walking only on his hind legs. The astonishing thing is that the dog is walking at all.

Politics aside, I truly enjoyed my time in China. The people, food and history were the highlights. I hope for further trips into the richest deepest culture in the world. China is definitely more than just Kung Fu kicks, Chicken Feet and Noodle Shops.

China is not the China the West sees in Western media sources, but China is also not the utopia the Chinese government wishes it to be. I hope one day every common Chinese and American can have an educated discussion on all issues related to our countries and the world. For this to happen, both America and China need to grow dramatically.

Xi'an

I step off the overnight train from Beijing to Xi'an. My face and body sticky and covered in cigarrette smoke. Immediately I look forward to the mass of people in front of me. George and I are now in what was once the capital of the Empire of China for 15 generations.

This is where the first Emperor unified all of China under one authority. This is where the silk road that spans virtually all of Asia, the Middle East and Eastern Europe begins and ends. This is where the often claimed eigth wonder of the ancient world, the Terracota Warriors, where discovered in 1975. This is where the Tomb of Emperor Jingdi lies with mercury depicting the lakes of the then known world. This is where I need to use the toilet.

Okay, okay, I'm joking, but it was a long train ride.

George and I step out of the train station into the maddness that is the mass of people in front of the station. I look for a taxi booth. In a rapid flurry for an available taxi, we compete with locals to find an open taxi. Packs on our backs we run and flag a taxi down. I open the door and tell the driver, "Defu Xiang, Shuyuan Xiang." He yells at me something in Chinese and basically makes it clear he will not take us. "Why won't this taxi driver take us?" George asks. I look at the other drivers ignoring us. I respond, "I don't know, this is weird, literally no taxi driver wants to take us anywhere."

We walk through the north city wall gate and try to flag a cab in the city center. In many ways this should have been our first indication that Xi'an is different than the rest of China. We finally make it to the hostel and spend the day viewing the Big Goose Pagoda and the Muslim Quarter of Xi'an. Xi'an is an interesting melange of cultures. As the beginning and end of the silk road, and given Islam was spread via trade by the Silk Road, Xi'an has a very vibrant Chinese Muslim population. The food there is distinctly different than Han Chinese food. I try some crushed flat bread soup with noodles, beef and onion. The soup is tasty. The beef broth is extremely potent. I also order some dumplings that contain spices not normally associated with Chinese cooking I feel. The influence of trade on Xi'an cultural food is readily apparent in the use of honey, dates and flat bread.

George, in need of a visa extension, decides to take an overnight train to Hong Kong. I decide to take the train to Shanghai and then my flight back to Hong Kong. After travelling with someone for two weeks, it can be difficult moving back to travelling alone. I shake his hand and say goodbye, "see you in Hong Kong brotha." "See you in Hong Kong" George grins.

After visiting the Terracotta Warriors, I grab my bag and attempt to head to the train station. I flag one cab down, "Hou che shan." The man waves his hand and shakes his head. Oh no! Not this again! Why the heck does no one want to take me to the train station? I start walking. Okay, okay, I still have a few hours of time. Maybe I can find another cab. I flag the second one, "Hou che shan, train station." The man waves his hand and shakes his head. This is getting ridiculus. The third one, now the fourth. By this time I am halfway to the center of the city. Maybe I can walk there? The hostel is the exact opposite side of the city as the train station. Walking there would take the entire day.

Well, as long as I continue walking north, I am walking in the right direction. I flag my fifth taxi, "Hou che shan" I start tapping my wrist to show that I am running out of time. Denied. Time panic starts to set in. What time is it? Okay, I have a little over an hour to make it. I continue walking. I think I am lost at this moment. Finally I flag another taxi. This time the cab does not even stop. He looks at me and shakes his head. What the fuck is going on? I think to myself I am screwed. No one wants to pick me up and I will miss my train to Shanghai. By the ninth taxi that does not even stop for me I start to wonder why.

I look at my clock. It's now fifty minutes before my train leaves. I will take any form of transportation at this moment. In addition, I will pay nearly anything to catch this train and not loose 333RMBs. A man on a motorcycle starts yelling at me. I think he wants to take me to the train station. I stare at him in disbelief. Am I really going to do this? With a huge 50lbs pack and a backpack on, am I going to let this fat man take me on his motorcycle?

No taxis are stopping for me. I look at my clock again. 45 minutes to go. "You can't take me! It's too unstable. I weigh nearly 200lbs and with both my backpacks, this will not work. We will get in an accident." He yells back in Chinese. I look on the road to see no taxis anywhere. Not like the cabs were stopping for a Western backpacker anyway. I step onto his old motorbike/scouter. This is probably either the worst decision I have made in China or the best. I will either get in an accident or I will make my train.

The pack still on my back and my backpack still on my front, I grab onto his fat sides and we start driving. I think I am going to die here. The traffic is horrible. We navigate through buses, cars, other motorcycles and pedestrian traffic all with no adherence to whatever traffic laws are in existence. I breath in the smog and dust and hope we do not get in an accident. This is the only way I can make my train. I keep telling him, "Hou che shan, Hou che shan." I tap my wrist neurotically. I know I need to go through security and the train station is like navigating through a dense forest of peddlers, beggars and old ladies with a knack of getting ahead of you in line.

We make a few rights and a left, it seems most during oncoming traffic. I start to wonder, does he know I need to go to the train station? Am I pronouncing "hou che shan" correctly? I start saying "hou che shan" while renacting an old choo choo train. He nodes and says "hou che shan, hou che shan." Okay, I think he knows where to go. Nothing looks familiar.

We make a left turn. I look over his left shoulder and recognize the north gate of the city walls. We are here. Finally I have made it, all in one piece too. I get off. "How much?" He grabs into his pocket and pulls out three 10RMB notes. A fleece!!!! What!??!? 30 RMB for what would cost 10RMB by taxi? I pretend not to understand and give him 20RMB. He looks at me, "no no no." He points at his three 10RMBs. Thinking about the time I realize I am haggling over the equivalent of $1.50. I give him 10RMB more. I am not happy. I would never have given him that much if I was not pressed for time.

I start running with packs on to the train station. I make my train...

Jagged Mountain Teeth

"Ol-live-aa. Ol-live-aa." I give George the obligatory smile, as if I have never heard someone renact Oliver Twist before. "Come on Oliver, it's half five. We've got to get up."

I am not a morning person. I turn over and tell him a few minutes. This has better be the best damn wall I have ever seen. Why do we have to get up so damn early? I finally climb down from the top bunk. I put on my rainbow sandals (got to represent CA in China), grab my toiletry bag and go to the restroom. The bus is supposed to pick us up at 6am. I wash my face and pack for the 10 kilometer hike. Lighter weight is better. We are climbing a very desolate unrepaired portion of the wall.

I step into the van with George and Stewart. I reiterate what I was thinking in bed, "This better be the best damn wall I have ever seen." The ride to the drop-off point on the wall is a more than 3 hour long drive. To my right flank is a Frenchman with no English skills. I look over my shoulder and see him smiling at me. 'Umm, I guess I will take a nap in the van.'

The ride is rough. The van driver passes a car on the shoulder of the road. Now he passes another car in the opposite lane, forcing the opposing car to slow down or face a head on collision. The drivers in China are a bit mental. There are no driving lanes in China. I feel as if we are playing "Frogger" with cars. 'Okay if nice but kind of weird Frenchman did not make you want to take a nap. I think staring out at the oncoming traffic will.' I wake by the van's abrupt stop at the entrance to the wall.

We walk up to the entrance and then into the first tower. There are 32 towers we need to pass in our 10km 4 hour plus hike along the Great Wall. The trek is less than comfortable you can say. At times I have to resort to all fours due to the steepness of the stairs/rubble that we need to climb over.

The sun is fully exposed. Smog pollution is less so close to the border with Mongolia. Over my left shoulder are Mongolia watch towers. To my right is China. The jagged mountains are like the teeth of a jaguar, sharp and daunting. To our demise, the Great Wall goes over the peaks of most of them. It is amazing to think this was made so long ago. I cannot help but imagine how many slaves and citizens must have died to make such an amazing human accomplishment. One of the seven ancient wonders of the world, only the pyramids in Egypt could rival the sheer size and awe-inspiring complexity in construction.

"Fuck me I'm tired." We only have walked one third of the way. It's hot, dry with no refuge from the ever-present sun. "I think I'm out of water." George looks a bit concerned. I look ahead, "I think there are Mongolians selling water at the next tower." The presence of Mongolians near the wall is interesting to say the least. They are selling everything from water to postcards. All have the same story. "I am here to support my family. I need to sell postcards to put my two children through school. I am a farmer in Mongolia." I would probably believe them if I did not hear it 3 times from 3 different people. They follow George and I like a mosquito after it's live dinner. I reluctantly buy some pictures of the wall. I probably would have bought them anyway, and it does seem like she needs the money.

I take at least 50 photos and 10 minutes of video. It is amazing what the human mind and society can think up and accomplish. As we cross the river on an unstable cable bridge, we see a zip line across the river to the nearest local town. Exhausted from the hike, we each pay the 35RMB's and slide down to town. As we are eating at the local restaurant Stewart says, "I think that was one of the best things I have ever done in my life."

"Yeah, definitely in the top ten." It was a great day. Virtually no one else on the wall and perfect weather. I will remember my hike on the Great Wall for the rest of my life. It was definitely worth it.

Beihai Park and First Days in Beijing

It is 5am. I just got off the overnight train from Tunxi with George and Stewart.
The morning cold pierces my exposed face as we navigate through the train station. Our shadows are not present. The full moon shines as night has not turned into day. We find some quick breakfast and head for the subway. We are heading for our hostel north of the Forbidden Palace.

After some deliberation we decide to change trains and get off south of the Forbidden Palace. The map makes it seem as if we can walk just ten minutes to the hostel from the subway stop. After about thirty minutes of walking, we are two thirds of the way to the hostel. Our 45 pound backpacks and our day trip bags weigh heavy on our shoulders. The Forbidden Palace compound is massive. It is much larger than the map led us to believe. Twenty foot high walls and Chinese army guards every 200 yards leaves us with a strong impression that this is what we always assumed. A place of the utmost national significance for the Chinese people. We make a left onto a dirt road about the width of one automobile. The dirt ground crumbles with each step we make on the small road. The right has a playground used by adults to stay fit. We navigate the maze of small roads that carry hundreds of years of history.

Our hostel is in a courtyard that is over one hundred years old. Everything in Beijing carries with it the history of the Chinese people. Chinese culture is the oldest continuous human culture in the history of the human species. No other culture in existence today can claim such a rich deep history. On numerous streets one can find plaques stating the historical significance of the building or street. After moving to another hostel the following day, we walk past one such building dating back to the 15th century.

Stewart and I walk into what we think is just Beijing's equivalent of New York's Central Park. The weather is a warm 17 degrees Celsius, perfect for doing something outside. After buying our tickets we walk over to a plaque with the name of the park, Beihai. The park is over 1000 years old. It is one of the oldest maintained parks in the world. There is an island in the middle of the lake with a white temple complex (White Dagoba Temple) created in light of a suggestion from a Tibetan monk in 1279. The history goes that after Kublai Khan invaded China and established the Yuan dynasty, Kublai Khan wanted to secure the loyalty of the Tibetans in the southwest. He commissioned a famous Nepalese architect to create the Lamaist Buddhist Temple.

Everything in China reeks of history and culture. After walking around the outside portion of the lake, we decide to take a boat to the island temple complex. The park has expanded considerably in its over 1000 year history. We walk up the old stone steps and reach the lower platform. I notice a wood sign for 'Ancient Caves on Jade Islet.' After paying the 5RMB I walk down the extensive steps to enter the cave. Immediately I am greeted by colored stone Terracotta-esque statues that flank the path. The cave complex is extensive. Built in 1166, these caves apparently run all over the island.

We spend hours in the park. I walk home thinking about the rich history found even in a simple park in the middle of the city.

Random Acts of Unsolicited Kindness

"I think there is a road called food street."

"Really?" I look at Stewart stomach aching.

"We've got to get to an ATM first guys." George is in need of cash.

"George, I think there's an Agricultural Bank of China over there."

After two attempts at different ATMs we realize we need an ATM that takes international cards. I look in my book and find a Bank of China that accepts foreign bank cards. "There's one on the corner, if we walk up here a bit."

We start walking. "I believe my trainers are completely soaked."

"Your what?" I ask Stewart, unfamiliar with British slang.

"My shoes. Do you not call them trainers?"

"No, just shoes," I say, trying to think if Americans call them anything else.

George chimes in, "Mine too, my trainers are piss wet through."

I wipe my rain soaked brow. "At least you guys have hoods. My hair is completely soaked."

"Heh, you got hair gel in your eyes yet?" "No." "You think you can make a Mohawk?" George asks jokingly.

I push my hair up in a failed attempt and just laugh. Buckets of water continue to fall on our rain-soaked bodies. "Nah, my hair is not staying up." I walk a few steps, "I think an umbrella is worth 10 RMBs in this shit."

We see a small shop on the side of the road. "How much for an umbrella?" I ask the shop owner.

She holds up three fingers. I look and Stewart and George, "Only 3 RMB? I might buy one as well" George responds. With no English skills the shop owner goes back behind the counter and pulls out a calculator. She types in 30.

"30?" I say, ready to bargain. "30 is too much." I hold up my palm, "5 RMB."

She laughs and shakes her head no. We walk on. "My trousers are soaked to my shins." I look over at Stewart and then at my pants. Both looked completely soaked through.

The rain starts coming down even harder now. The weather gods have ruined any chance for us to summit Yellow Mountain tomorrow. Right now we are just looking for an ATM and a place to eat. George asks how much further until the Bank of China ATM.

"I think it's coming up. It is supposed to be on the street corner ahead of us." I see bright lights and what looks to be a city center in the mist of the rain. Stewart stops randomly on the sidewalk. I look over my shoulder after him. Two Chinese girls run up to both of us. George follows suit.

"Hello." One of the Chinese girls says. We respond, "Nie hao." Her English is obviously limited to a few words. She grabs her umbrella and shoves it into Stewart.

"I don't know what she wants," Stewart says chuckling at the situation.

I laugh also out of sheer awkwardness. "Are you selling your umbrella?"

George says, "I think she wants us to buy the umbrella."

"No," the Chinese girl says adamantly.

"Stewart, I don't know what she wants." I am getting a little impatient thinking she's trying to sell us something.

"Me, neither." We both just smile at her. The awkwardness lasts for a good moment longer. Then the other girl says, "You take."

"What?" The Chinese girl says again. "You take." She adds this time, "you take, to remember China."

"Oh she's giving us her umbrella." Stewart, George and I look at each other. The Chinese girl is giving us her umbrella in the middle of a storm so that we have a good time in China.

"What about you?" You will get soaked, it is raining really hard out." It is hard for me to accept such a generous gift given the harsh weather.

"You take. I will be fine." She huddles with her friend for warmth.

There is absolutely no way she will let us refuse. We take the umbrella, say "xie, xie" and they run off hand in hand in the pouring rain. I look at my British travel companions. "This random gift of kindness would never happen in the States."

"Not in Britain either." George responds.

I do not think it would happen in many places in the world, but it did happen to three Western backpackers in China...

Lonely Planet

Travelling by yourself in a foreign country can be challenging sometimes. When you add the fact that you do not speak their language, and they do not speak yours, the often taken for granted task of getting from point A to point B can seem daunting.

Self-admittedly, I am no expert backpacker. Yes, I have done kindergarten level backpacking (backpacking through Europe), where everyone speaks English. Words to the wise, those that do not speak English really do, but just do not want to admit it for pouty nationalistic pride (damn FROGs). For the extreme minority that truly do not know English, most likely they know the essentials (time, greetings, etc).

I would definitely put a healthy wager on the fact that if I ask a European who does not speak English "what time is it," the European probably would know how to say "8:30 am" or whatever time it may be. So on the scale of backpacking difficulty, Europe gets the ABC's/123's of kindergarten.

Panama and West Africa were definitely harder than Europe. Specifically, travelling West Africa alone was one of the toughest journeys I have had to make. I still remember arriving at the capital of the Afram Plains by boat (because there is no road that connects this area of Ghana with the rest of the region). There were only dirt roads and no running water. In my hotel bedroom that night, I counted roughly 50 different kinds of spiders on the wall and bed of the hotel room. I think I probably slept with a few new species that night given the seemingly limitless varitey. The bucket showers were tolerable. The 50 spiders crawling over you while you slept was an adventure. Needless to say, I got in and out of there as quick as my research would allow me to.

I am a firm believer that there are times to complain, and times to go with the flow of things. If I found even 10 different kinds of spiders in my apartment in Manhattan, most likely all my friends would have heard about it. However, put myself in a different situation, like in Ghana, I will just roll with it.

I chaulk this split personality up to helping my parents around the house. I guess being 13 and knee-deep in septic waste trying to figure why the leech field is not decomposing last week's dinner has some hidden fiberous pyschological benefits. The list of similar less-than-pleasant memories of my youth could go on, but I think you have the point.

With this blue-collar do-it-yourself indoctrination, my brother and I also developed a penchant for the arts, science, classical music, five star restaurants, and at one time musicals and operas - mainly my brother got to fly with Papa to London to go see Cats and the like in the late 80s/early 90s. I was left behind to learn piano scales and cause general mischief for my mom. All in all, it was a pretty well rounded upbringing. I definitely did not grow complaining about my shoulder or back pain when I did something physical around the house. But, back to the point.

The biggest issue in China is the language barrier. When I say no one speaks English, I mean 98 out of 100 people do not have even the slightest idea of how to say a few English words. Where I'd throw down a good chunk of change on people in Europe telling me what time it is, I would hestitate to do the same in China. When I posed this question to someone I met in Shanghai, the man looked at me as if I was infecting him with scabies or something. The blank stare of fear and confusion seems to be popular response. On top of that, most signs are in Chinese although the main ones for streets and such have English translations below. Trying to figure where and how to get somewhere is much like a game of craps, and no you cannot just play the pass line. If only I knew a little Chinese.

Outside of the language issue. Travelling alone through China is a backpacker's dream. Everything in China runs like clockwork. Trains arrive on time, everything is immaculately clean, the country so far has been really safe, and friendliness is an understatement to what I experienced from Chinese people my first night in Shanghai.

I make a left onto East Beijing road from Xiangxi road. After that phenomenal meal of peanuts and bread on the plane, I look for some local food. The dimly lit street leaves only the outline of a person standing on the sidewalk. I think she is waiting for a bus. I walk past her a few steps. I am a little shy at first. I think to myself, "Well, you will never get anywhere without trying."

"Excuse me, do you speak English?"

She smiles and looks at her feet a little embarrased. "Yes, a little."

"Do you know where I can get some xiaolongbau?"

"What?" she responds with that classic blank stare.

"xiao--long--bao" I repeat.

"Oh, xiaolongbao!" She smiles again. "There is no xiaolongbao here. You need to go..."

At this point she changes into Chinese. I give her the stare of confusion back. "How about some local food? I want to eat some local Shanghai food."

She knods with understanding. "You come follow me." I smile but I also wonder, 'but I don't want you to miss your bus. What should I do? I would hate to have this girl wait another hour to catch her bus home.' I reluctantly follow believing she knows what she is doing.

We enter a restaurant I would never have gone to without her reassurance this was the place to order local food. For those of you who have been to San Diego or any US-Mexico bordertown, picture a Mexican hole-in-the-wall restuarant with only locals. She says, "you like soup?"

"Yes!" By this time I could eat anything. That dry airline bread for lunch just could not cut it. She sits with me as I eat. The soup consisted of wontons in beef broth. The meat was cooked with ginger, parsley, a hint of local spices and what I think were scallions or green onions. She says, "very good yes?"

I knod with enthusiasm. It was amazing food. She gets up from the table. "I have to go meet my friend."

"Xie xie," (thank you) and I smile. I finish my meal while staring at the kitchen. I grab my backpack and look outside. She just happens to be walking outside near the entrance. At that moment she yells, "Bye bye, nice to meet you." I smile and think about how friendly everyone in China is.

Shanghai

"What did you say?" The flight attendent looks at me puzzled. I point to the tray and smile. Next thing I know I get a roll of bread and salted peanuts. But wait, where's the main course?

"Oh she was asking whether I wanted beef or chicken," I thought to myself. By this time she's five rows behind me. Despondent over my lack of Mandarin language skills, I eat the stale bread and salted peanuts. "Well I guess I can eat when I get off the plane."

I just arrived in Shanghai. When my friends said mainland China and the SAR Hong Kong were different, they were definitely not joking. Literally no one speaks English here. After my numerous attempts to communicate with the flight attendant, I realize this is just a taste of what I will most likely experience for the next 17 days. However, with that said, I will hopefully be able to pick up a few words here or there. Essentials would have to be "hello, thank you, toilet." Luckily, I have two of the three down. The other, well, lets just hope I learn that one before I need to use the porcelin god.

I'm at a hostel in Shanghai's Bund district. It is nice. Pine beds, clean sheets, random Europeans and Chinese. The conditions are btter than most hostels in Europe I would say. It's just about time for me to round up some pork soup dumplings "xiaolongbao". Shanghai is known for it's "xiaolongbao." If it's better than the dumplings I've had in new york, I'll be in Chinese food heaven. After experiencing the tasty local food in Hong Kong, I'm looking forward to the famous local xiaolongbao. I'll be sure to take a few pictures/videos of it if you have never tried it. And, if you have tried it in the States, it better have been in San Fran or New York because Chinese food anywhere else is, quite frankly, not real Chinese.

I hope to update this blog frequently, but videos will have to wait until I'm back in HK.

Video: Hong Kong

Here are a few highlights from the week. Big ups to Hong Kong's finest, Mr. Andy Lau for his rockin' music.

Blogs

Randomly came across this while checking what's up in the U.S. these days.

Apparently there is a positive correlation between blogs and recessions (see the New York Times op-ed from Adam Cohen), or so one could assume. Economists and economics in general seems to be in demand given the crisis.

Sign of the times

I saw this sign in Tsim Sha Tsui (TST). It's an area of Hong Kong with shopping and lots of Indian watch sellers (no joke). Every block there's some guy asking whether I need a fake timex, rolex, tag heuer or Armani suit. Just in case you can't read it, the sign says "Global Recession, Crazy Sale, Up to 80% off".

For the non-economists (most my finance/economist friends know this already), the crisis has definitely hit Asia pretty hard. I guess all those people who thought East Asia would not be affected by the crisis were wrong. The Chinese government says that due to the size of China, China needs to grow above 8% in order to maintain positive growth (as in still being able to pull Chinese citizens out of poverty). 8% seems a little high for me. Regardless, most economists do not see that happening this year, even with China's attempts at curbing the loss of manufacturing jobs with public works spending.

I think if China's economy was in a later stage of development (maybe 20 years from now), with a strong level of domestic demand for goods and services similar to the United States (which will happen soon although China's marginal propensity to save will naturally be higher than the US), this global contagion would not have hit Asia too hard. As an export led industry focused on US consumption, most Asian countries are getting hit really hard. In Japan alone, exports are down 45%. Korea, China and all Asian countries are in a similar shape.

Like I wrote a few weeks ago, it's easy to divert to economic nationalism when things go south. However, if we see higher trade barriers in countries, the short answer is this global recession will be prolonged. This flat world could soon be rigid once again.

As for me, I'm looking forward to riding out this severe L-shaped recession in law school. It's probably the best time to go to school (if you have ever thought about going back and your job is insecure, I'd throw a few applications out). I can probably name 12 of my friends who are unemployed and actively seeking a job. There is just nothing available.

The 20-30 somethings are getting hit the hardest, which is natural when you think about it. I mean, if the totem pole needs to be shortened, most likely you start from the ugly bottom, not the intricate top where all the intellectual experience-capital is.

However riding out the recession in school is a double-edged sword too. For me, application rates to law schools are at the highest rates in decades. More applications means more competitive applicants, which means I'm pretty "f - ed." It's just plain harder to get into a good law school now than at any point in the last 30 years. And most analysts have raw data to back that statement up. It's something to think about, and it's definitely really frustrating.

Video: First Day in Asia. Hong Kong arrival

Still getting used to this small camera, sorry for the instability issues. I hope you guys like it!

Roger Cohen's latest piece

If you missed the last article Roger Cohen wrote. Here it is.

It's a follow-up on the piece I posted a week ago.