Lonely Planet

Travelling by yourself in a foreign country can be challenging sometimes. When you add the fact that you do not speak their language, and they do not speak yours, the often taken for granted task of getting from point A to point B can seem daunting.

Self-admittedly, I am no expert backpacker. Yes, I have done kindergarten level backpacking (backpacking through Europe), where everyone speaks English. Words to the wise, those that do not speak English really do, but just do not want to admit it for pouty nationalistic pride (damn FROGs). For the extreme minority that truly do not know English, most likely they know the essentials (time, greetings, etc).

I would definitely put a healthy wager on the fact that if I ask a European who does not speak English "what time is it," the European probably would know how to say "8:30 am" or whatever time it may be. So on the scale of backpacking difficulty, Europe gets the ABC's/123's of kindergarten.

Panama and West Africa were definitely harder than Europe. Specifically, travelling West Africa alone was one of the toughest journeys I have had to make. I still remember arriving at the capital of the Afram Plains by boat (because there is no road that connects this area of Ghana with the rest of the region). There were only dirt roads and no running water. In my hotel bedroom that night, I counted roughly 50 different kinds of spiders on the wall and bed of the hotel room. I think I probably slept with a few new species that night given the seemingly limitless varitey. The bucket showers were tolerable. The 50 spiders crawling over you while you slept was an adventure. Needless to say, I got in and out of there as quick as my research would allow me to.

I am a firm believer that there are times to complain, and times to go with the flow of things. If I found even 10 different kinds of spiders in my apartment in Manhattan, most likely all my friends would have heard about it. However, put myself in a different situation, like in Ghana, I will just roll with it.

I chaulk this split personality up to helping my parents around the house. I guess being 13 and knee-deep in septic waste trying to figure why the leech field is not decomposing last week's dinner has some hidden fiberous pyschological benefits. The list of similar less-than-pleasant memories of my youth could go on, but I think you have the point.

With this blue-collar do-it-yourself indoctrination, my brother and I also developed a penchant for the arts, science, classical music, five star restaurants, and at one time musicals and operas - mainly my brother got to fly with Papa to London to go see Cats and the like in the late 80s/early 90s. I was left behind to learn piano scales and cause general mischief for my mom. All in all, it was a pretty well rounded upbringing. I definitely did not grow complaining about my shoulder or back pain when I did something physical around the house. But, back to the point.

The biggest issue in China is the language barrier. When I say no one speaks English, I mean 98 out of 100 people do not have even the slightest idea of how to say a few English words. Where I'd throw down a good chunk of change on people in Europe telling me what time it is, I would hestitate to do the same in China. When I posed this question to someone I met in Shanghai, the man looked at me as if I was infecting him with scabies or something. The blank stare of fear and confusion seems to be popular response. On top of that, most signs are in Chinese although the main ones for streets and such have English translations below. Trying to figure where and how to get somewhere is much like a game of craps, and no you cannot just play the pass line. If only I knew a little Chinese.

Outside of the language issue. Travelling alone through China is a backpacker's dream. Everything in China runs like clockwork. Trains arrive on time, everything is immaculately clean, the country so far has been really safe, and friendliness is an understatement to what I experienced from Chinese people my first night in Shanghai.

I make a left onto East Beijing road from Xiangxi road. After that phenomenal meal of peanuts and bread on the plane, I look for some local food. The dimly lit street leaves only the outline of a person standing on the sidewalk. I think she is waiting for a bus. I walk past her a few steps. I am a little shy at first. I think to myself, "Well, you will never get anywhere without trying."

"Excuse me, do you speak English?"

She smiles and looks at her feet a little embarrased. "Yes, a little."

"Do you know where I can get some xiaolongbau?"

"What?" she responds with that classic blank stare.

"xiao--long--bao" I repeat.

"Oh, xiaolongbao!" She smiles again. "There is no xiaolongbao here. You need to go..."

At this point she changes into Chinese. I give her the stare of confusion back. "How about some local food? I want to eat some local Shanghai food."

She knods with understanding. "You come follow me." I smile but I also wonder, 'but I don't want you to miss your bus. What should I do? I would hate to have this girl wait another hour to catch her bus home.' I reluctantly follow believing she knows what she is doing.

We enter a restaurant I would never have gone to without her reassurance this was the place to order local food. For those of you who have been to San Diego or any US-Mexico bordertown, picture a Mexican hole-in-the-wall restuarant with only locals. She says, "you like soup?"

"Yes!" By this time I could eat anything. That dry airline bread for lunch just could not cut it. She sits with me as I eat. The soup consisted of wontons in beef broth. The meat was cooked with ginger, parsley, a hint of local spices and what I think were scallions or green onions. She says, "very good yes?"

I knod with enthusiasm. It was amazing food. She gets up from the table. "I have to go meet my friend."

"Xie xie," (thank you) and I smile. I finish my meal while staring at the kitchen. I grab my backpack and look outside. She just happens to be walking outside near the entrance. At that moment she yells, "Bye bye, nice to meet you." I smile and think about how friendly everyone in China is.