"I think there is a road called food street."
"Really?" I look at Stewart stomach aching.
"We've got to get to an ATM first guys." George is in need of cash.
"George, I think there's an Agricultural Bank of China over there."
After two attempts at different ATMs we realize we need an ATM that takes international cards. I look in my book and find a Bank of China that accepts foreign bank cards. "There's one on the corner, if we walk up here a bit."
We start walking. "I believe my trainers are completely soaked."
"Your what?" I ask Stewart, unfamiliar with British slang.
"My shoes. Do you not call them trainers?"
"No, just shoes," I say, trying to think if Americans call them anything else.
George chimes in, "Mine too, my trainers are piss wet through."
I wipe my rain soaked brow. "At least you guys have hoods. My hair is completely soaked."
"Heh, you got hair gel in your eyes yet?" "No." "You think you can make a Mohawk?" George asks jokingly.
I push my hair up in a failed attempt and just laugh. Buckets of water continue to fall on our rain-soaked bodies. "Nah, my hair is not staying up." I walk a few steps, "I think an umbrella is worth 10 RMBs in this shit."
We see a small shop on the side of the road. "How much for an umbrella?" I ask the shop owner.
She holds up three fingers. I look and Stewart and George, "Only 3 RMB? I might buy one as well" George responds. With no English skills the shop owner goes back behind the counter and pulls out a calculator. She types in 30.
"30?" I say, ready to bargain. "30 is too much." I hold up my palm, "5 RMB."
She laughs and shakes her head no. We walk on. "My trousers are soaked to my shins." I look over at Stewart and then at my pants. Both looked completely soaked through.
The rain starts coming down even harder now. The weather gods have ruined any chance for us to summit Yellow Mountain tomorrow. Right now we are just looking for an ATM and a place to eat. George asks how much further until the Bank of China ATM.
"I think it's coming up. It is supposed to be on the street corner ahead of us." I see bright lights and what looks to be a city center in the mist of the rain. Stewart stops randomly on the sidewalk. I look over my shoulder after him. Two Chinese girls run up to both of us. George follows suit.
"Hello." One of the Chinese girls says. We respond, "Nie hao." Her English is obviously limited to a few words. She grabs her umbrella and shoves it into Stewart.
"I don't know what she wants," Stewart says chuckling at the situation.
I laugh also out of sheer awkwardness. "Are you selling your umbrella?"
George says, "I think she wants us to buy the umbrella."
"No," the Chinese girl says adamantly.
"Stewart, I don't know what she wants." I am getting a little impatient thinking she's trying to sell us something.
"Me, neither." We both just smile at her. The awkwardness lasts for a good moment longer. Then the other girl says, "You take."
"What?" The Chinese girl says again. "You take." She adds this time, "you take, to remember China."
"Oh she's giving us her umbrella." Stewart, George and I look at each other. The Chinese girl is giving us her umbrella in the middle of a storm so that we have a good time in China.
"What about you?" You will get soaked, it is raining really hard out." It is hard for me to accept such a generous gift given the harsh weather.
"You take. I will be fine." She huddles with her friend for warmth.
There is absolutely no way she will let us refuse. We take the umbrella, say "xie, xie" and they run off hand in hand in the pouring rain. I look at my British travel companions. "This random gift of kindness would never happen in the States."
"Not in Britain either." George responds.
I do not think it would happen in many places in the world, but it did happen to three Western backpackers in China...
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